Articles
ARTICLES:
I would suggest you buy a good quality book on Budgerigars and read this over and over. Then there are many good web sites available with information on colour, health and care of the budgie. I will list some at the end.
It is such a good idea to join a club near you if you can as so much can be learned from other breeders and most clubs have regular guest lecturers visit their meetings and these are invaluable. I have gained so much knowledge and am still learning from these great nights.
Here is my routine I use for feeding and maintenance below * It suits me as I like to keep to a regular programme that way I know what I’m up to next. As many breeders work of a day and have to do their birds at night or weekends, you will need to work out a routine that suits yourself.
I do however recommend you keep it fairly structured if you can and a light in you bird room is essential if doing them at night (you can get great solar shed lights now if you don’t have the power to your room. Also I strongly suggest a night light for your birds, they are easy to buy from supermarkets or dollar & cents stores – they come on at dusk and go off at dawn – you will need power for them – but before I had power to my room I put a solar garden light out in the sun of a day and in the room at night. This gives your birds the chance to find their way back into their nests and if they are frightened y something, they settle quicker with the night light and find their perches etc., and go back to roost again.
Click on the More articles area (at bottom of this page) is an item regarding a lecture by Dr David Phelan on Megabacteria (or as he would like it known Macro as it is a fungus)
For your information - if purchasing a bird & you do not know the breeder check the ring - as some new people into the bird hobby are confused as to the age of the bird they are buying, so hope this helps.
Australian National Budgerigar Council Ring Colours -
these rings will have the club initials & sometimes a breeders coded initials on them.
Year 2003 - Red Year 2004 – Blue Year 2005 – Purple Year 2006 - Gold
Year 2007 – Green Year 2008 – Black Year 2009 – Red Year 2010 - Blue
"New Product out now for Vitamin D for birds kept indoors - Vetafarm Soluvite D - helps birds that do not get adaquate sunlight"
Article by Don Burke tells of the great benefits in using this product!
*CAMELLE’S FEEDING & HEALTH MAINTENANCE ROUTINE
FLIGHT BIRDS
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Mon
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Tues
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Frid
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Normal Budgies Mix with small amount of hulled oats & grey striped sunflower seed or small parrot mix.
Fresh water daily.
Calcium/iodine blocks.
Murphys Minerals (or similar) charcoal pieces & crushed cuttlebone mixed together + Pidgeon Mineral block crushed or similar
Now added to my routine is Soluvite D(Vetafarm)can be given in water or in feed, I give it twice a week now.
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Same as Mon.+
Eucalyptus
branches & leaves(washed)
remove next day. Apple cider vinegar (6mls to 1 litre water)**
Calcivet in water &
Change water every day & clean drinkers with Aviclens or similar.
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Same as Mon.
With iodine drops in water(3-4 drops to 1 litre) Betadine liquid or similar
Check seed for husks – blow off & top up with fresh seed mix.
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Same as Mon.
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Same as Mon. with Apple cider vinegar (6 mls to 1 litre water)**Also available now is Sweet water -Vetafarm with fruit acids etc.
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Same as Mon.
With Calcivet in water & Eucalyptus leaves
(washed)
removed next day.
Check seed for husks – blow off & top up with fresh seed mix.
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Same as Mon. With iodine drops in water (3-4 drops to 1 litre)Betadine liquid or similar.
Daily
Give all flight birds any left over moist food from mixing bowl but not close to shows.
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I rarely hand rear, but if I have a baby that the parents kicks out early I would mix up some NeoCare (Vetafarm products) it is excellent, there is also a product called FIRST AID (by PASSWELL)for orphaned or injured birds(I have recently had to use this product on a 3weeks old that was attacked by one of its parents & took to the mx straight off when I had it hot enough, if I let it cool to much it would not feed-so that it really important-baby is still alive & will be transfered back to bird room shortly), but you can use softened wholemeal bread with a baby formula milk powder & warm water as emergencyjust to get some food into the bird, if the baby is very young crop needle feeding is recommended, if older then a spoon with the end bend down is good(can purchase these already made). Also if they are of an age that they can go in with other nestfeathers often one of the other will feed the baby and I would keep up extra of my soft mix there for them as it has all the Budgie Starter & Egg & Biscuit in it together with Silverbeet, Carrot & Peanut butter, several sprigs of panorama millet spray or french white millet spray is a great mix for the Nesties & Juvenilles and keeps them occupied as they can get into a habit of chewing on each others tails - I put in lots of things for them to play with (rolls from inside the paper hand towels, plastic tops of antiseptic spray cans etc.) At this stage also keep up the spraying for lice & mites as they are always preening each other. Don't forget wherever you can put in some eucalyptus leaves or small branches or some small bottle brush, this is natural for them as well as keeping them from getting bored.
BREEDING PAIRS
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Mon
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As per flight birds
+ Every morning moist food -carrots, silverbeet, Budgie Starter(or similar rearing mix), rolled oats, peanut butter, all mixed in blender is moist enough without adding fluid) small amount to start then increase as babies grow, add small amount of Breeding aid oil (or similar in blended mix & small amount of iodised salt.)
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As Mon.
with little extra hulled oats or a small parrot mix
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As Mon. with little extra Hulled oats
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As Mon.
with little extra Hulled oats + millet sprays
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As Mon.
with little extra Hulled oats + small parrot mix
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As Mon.
with little extra Hulled oats
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As Mon.
with little extra Hulled oats +
a small parrot mix
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TREATMENTS AND MAINTENANCE
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After wet or lengthy humid weather – to prevent or treat Cocci, I do all birds out with Coccivet Vetafarm (as per instructions)
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When finished any treatment give birds Pro Biotics (as per instructions on container)
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Treat all birds for Canker twice a year with
Ronivet S – (as per instructions on container)
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Worm all birds 3 to 4 times year (I use Worm Gel Vetafarm) but there are several good products- Ivomec – drop on back of neck-for worms & prevent scale & help get rid of mites (use the sheep type)
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Treat regularly for lice or mites-(I used Skatta 7 powder)no longer produced so Pesterene powder & Avian liquidator(Vetafarm)-also put in bottom of nest boxes when setting up, vary your products as the little blighters become resistant after a while. Ivomec or similar 1 drop on skin between shoulders(down from back of neck)alterate your treatments.
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Use Spark (Vetafarm)before & after shows or any stress conditions to prevent dehydration, the liquid form keeps longer.
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Fungilin or fungilin lozenges are used for Mega(now called Macro) see notes from Dr David Phalen lecture-Wynnum Open Dayin More Articles Page.(Now new products our check with your Vet.)
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Sulpha D is of course first aid treatment & works on many birds that are just a bit off – combined with warmth.
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Small amount of Eucalypt. oil & tea tree oil in spray bottle great as I like to clean my hands between handling birds especially babies in nests & I dilute it well to spray my birds couple times a week.**can use baby wipes for hands.
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Have anticeptics available for emergency & cleaning of dirty vents etc. Paper towels are great idea as can throw away after each use. I also have some baby wipes available.
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I wash out my nest boxes thoroughly with hot soapy water in between each pairing & Glen 20 is useful for spraying around to stop the spread of germs then rinse & dry, apply an antiviral preparation if you can such as VirkonS, then use anti lice powder or spray and let air out.
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Always clean cages out thoroughly between each pairing & keep flights as clean as possible, I now feed up off the ground & waterers are up high, I use many sizes of branches & perches & sandpaper these & spray with mix above**
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When some of tail feather don’t open properly, put couple drops of tea tree oil & wipe with cotton bud, helps clean up any bacteria & seems to soften the sheath around the feather, this was advised at the lecture by John Scoble at an open day put on by Wynnum Budgerigar Soc. & I have found it successful.
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Some low irritant surface fly spray, sprayed into corners helps with spiders etc. crushed dry garlic seems to repel the moths as well as eucalyptus oil, sprinkled around aviary. You can also use Avian Liquidator throughout aviary. I find it good to vary the applications so the insects don't build up resistance.
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In nest boxes I now use recycled paper Cat litter instead of shavings as I find it more absorbent and less smelly in nest, but I add gradually around eggs so as not to dry eggs out too much.
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CAMELLE’S SOFT BIRD FEED - this is just a sample)
3 dessertspoons budgie starter (or equivalent) (can start with 1 heaped then build to 3 as they get used to it)
2 dessertspoons Egg & Biscuit mix (from produce or bird supplier) (or slice of a good wholegrain bread with plenty of grains)
2 dessertspoons rolled oats (just the home brand is fine)
Place both in food processor & make into crumb mix.
Add 1 teaspoon (of Rice Oil, Grapeseed Oil & Olive oil, that I have mixed equal parts in a jar or bottle as an alternative to Breeding Aid) this has the omega 3 oils etc. they need and seems to keep their feather nice and the hens have less problems with egg laying(.do not overdo the oil)
Blend together with the crumb mix.
Add 1 medium carrot & good handful of spinach leaves (baby spinach or silverbeet) & small amount of corn (I use the frozen corn kernels)or the Corn on Cob-not type in plastic wrap as bacteria can build up in these.
Blend together till mix is a moist crumbly consistency (if not moist enough add more spinach & carrot)
This amount gives all my breeders about dessertspoonful & some left for juveniles & little for flight, as they are feeding more babies you can give the breeders bit more-you will see they will come down & finish quickly as babies get bigger)
If birds aren’t used to soft food only make small amount to start then increase mix over time.
If feeding this in the morning, remove any left over mixture by afternoon. If feeding this in afternoon take out any left over mixture first thing in morning (otherwise it can turn rancid).
Some good books are: “The Challenge” by Gerald S Binks (top UK breeder) I find this book wonderful. This can be obtained from ABK website (Australian Birdkeepers)they also keep other books. Some older books can sometimes be picked up from second hand dealers or on the net e.g. “Budgerigars in colour” – Their Care and Breeding - A Rutgers edited by Cyril Rogers (an older book but heaps of info.) John Scoble's book on budgerigars was one of the first 2nd hand books I obtained & it is great for beginners. Plenty more out their and many clubs have libraries for members. Check out the links page for good sites. Check out the links page for other clubs & web sites - I will endeavour to keep adding to this information on a regular basis.
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More articles -
click to see more info
Suffusion confusion. By Peter Dodd. April 2010
(Peter is a life member of the Budgerigar Society of NSW, a National judge and a well known breeder of the Blackeyed self variety)
At every show I have attended this year (2010), either as an exhibitor or a judge, there has been a great deal of confusion and concern over the difficulty of exhibitors knowing in which class they should show their Blackeyed Yellows and Suffused Yellows. Judges also seem to have a problem in deciding as to whether the birds are Blackeyed Yellows or Suffused Yellows.
It has now reached the stage where some judges do not even wish to judge either of these Blackeyed Yellow or the Suffused Yellow classes.
As a direct result of the decision to make the Suffused Yellow / White a Standard variety, a leading breeder of Blackeyed Yellows in Australia has indicated to me that he is seriously considering selling all of his Blackeyed Yellows. At one show he had a particular bird “wrong classed” in the Blackeyed Self class, and then subsequently again had it “wrong classed” when entered as a Suffused Yellow at the following show. This is an absolute travesty.
Other exhibitors of these varieties are also having the same problems. Even the results of the Blackeyed class at the National competition in Tasmania last year caused much controversy.
It has now reached the ludicrous situation whereby at some shows the officiating judges get together prior to the commencement of judging, to ensure that birds in the Blackeyed Self & Suffused Yellow classes will not be “wrong classed” later in the day.
I have lobbied to the BS NSW Inc that the Suffused Yellow-White be removed from the Standard, as it is not a true separate variety. Yet, I have been duly informed that “as it is the original mutation” it is entitled to have its own class.
The Blackeyed Self Variety, as we know it today is a vast improvement on the original Yellows / Whites. Over many years, skilled breeders have worked hard to remove the suffusion, resulting in the attractive clear buttercup yellow body coloured birds we know today.
One solution to this ongoing problem (Suffusion confusion) is to remove the Suffused Yellow- White Variety from the Standard, and have these birds included in the Blackeyed Self Colour Variety and be penalised accordingly (for having body colour suffusion). To use a similar analogy, if Lutino and Albinos are presented at a show with body colour suffusion, then they are penalised according to the amount of suffusion.
I believe that if the Suffused Yellows / Whites are to remain a Standard Variety; we may well lose the beautiful buttercup Yellows that we have spent so many years perfecting. It is far easier to breed Yellows & Whites with suffusion than without, so why would breeders bother trying to breed the optimal Blackeyed Self Coloured Yellows / Whites?
For that matter, lets also change the terminology “Blackeyed Self Colour” to Blackeyed Yellow or White. The Standard allows for the Blackeyed Self Colour to have markings on the back of the head, neck and wings, and as such is not a true Self Colour.
We should do everything to protect and preserve the Blackeyed Variety and remove the Suffused Yellow / White Variety from the Standard- and thus put an end to the Suffusion confusion.
You can click on The Picture of the Nest Record Sheet to enlarge & copy for your use.
This calendar can be used to simplify when the budgie eggs will hatch
Take the day the eggs were laid and look below that date. That’s the day the eggs should hatch.
Example : day the eggs were laid 19th September - day the eggs will hatch 7th October
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